The red bearded dragon is an eye-catching variation on the iconic bearded dragon. It has a brilliant red hue, as the name indicates, yet various variations have varied degrees of red. It is regarded as a gratifying animal to possess, as are all bearded dragons.
While the bearded dragon is largely regarded as an excellent pet, even for inexperienced owners, it does have some demanding needs. Feeder insects, for example, must be gut loaded or powdered before being fed.
They are interesting reptiles to observe and typically tolerate being touched. If you're thinking about taking on this kind of lizard, keep reading to find out what you'll need.
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| Red bearded drageon |
The following are some quick facts about Red Bearded Dragons.
- Pogona vitticeps is the scientific name for this species.
- Red Bearded Dragon is a common name for a dragon with a red beard.
- Moderate level of care
- Life expectancy: ten years
- 16–24 inches in adult size
- Insects and veggies are the staples of their diet.
- 55 gallon minimum tank size
- Temperature and Humidity: 80°–105°F temperature, 30%–40% humidity
Whether Red Bearded Dragons are good pets or not is an important question.
The ideal lizard or reptile pet for beginners is generally characterized as a bearded dragon. As a result, they are tolerant of and often like being handled by their owners. A bearded dragon's care requirements, however, may range from modest to high, due of the animal's unique habitat and food requirements. With enough room, time, and attention, the red bearded dragon may be an excellent pet if you're willing to put in the effort to keep it at the right humidity/temperature.
Appearance
As a species, bearded dragons seem like something out of the Stone Age. They may inflate their spiky collar when they're anxious or seeking to attract a partner with their inflated scales and spines.
Beardies may reach a height of 24 inches and a weight of 1 pound. Depending on the morph, their tails may be as long or as short as half their body length.
Red bearded dragons are simple to identify. These are not native to the wild and were produced in captivity. Although the exact hue of red varies depending on the morph, red and ruby morphs have the highest price tags because of their rarity.
Red Bearded Dragon Care and Maintenance
A healthy red bearded dragon requires a minimum tank and setup as shown below.
Species, habitats, and tank conditions
Tank
At least a 55-gallon size tank is needed for an adult bearded dragon, but a bigger tank with more room will be better for the reptile. In the wild, beardies do spend some time in trees; thus, re-creating this environment will provide beardies with a more fulfilled and pleasurable one. Branches, logs, and rocks all contribute to the overall height of the structure. A bearded dragon's aquarium needs a hide, which may be made from a half-log.
Dead insects and garbage should be removed from the tank on a daily basis by doing a spot cleaning. You should only have to clean the tank once a month if you do a good job of spot cleaning. Remove everything, sterilize, and reapply the substrate with a new coat of paint.
Lighting
Regular exposure to UVB light is necessary for bears to thrive. In order to assure that your beardie can come within 12 inches of the bulb, you need use special fluorescent illumination. Your beardie's natural environment is a 12-hour day/night cycle.
Warming (Temperature & Humidity)
Maintain a temperature gradient in the tank, ranging from a chilly end of 80°F to a basking end of 105°F. At night, the temperature may fall to 70o F. In order to maintain the ideal temperature, you should utilize thermometers, ceramic heaters, mercury bulbs, and incandescent lights.
It is recommended to keep the humidity between 30% and 40%. If you reside in a humid environment and need to lower the humidity, this might be a difficult task. Accurate humidity measurements may be made with a hydrometer.
Substrate
This requires creating a substrate that mimics the dry climate they are used to, yet that does not harm them if swallowed by insects and other foods." Burrowing is OK in washed play sand, but stay away from silica sand if possible. Paper towels and reptile carpet are two more possibilities. When designing a habitat for juveniles, sand should be avoided at all costs.
Recommendations for Tanks
- 55-gallon vivarium made of glass.
- Fluorescent light emitting UVB
- Basking lamps and ceramic heaters are among the options for heating.
- Play sand (adults) and reptile carpets (children) are the best substrates (juveniles)
Your Red Bearded Dragon's Nutrition
- Cockroaches, Dubia roaches, superworms, and earthworms are some of the insects that may be found in the wild nowadays.
- Greens like kale and peppers like bell peppers are just a few examples of what's on the menu.
- Blueberries, strawberries, and peaches are examples of fruits.
A day before feeding them to your beardies, make sure to gut-load the insects. This is done by giving the insects nutrient-dense veggies, increasing the amount of nutrients that your reptile can absorb from its food.
- Fruits account about 10% of the diet (juvenile)
- 25 percent of the diet (adult)
- Vegetables: 15% of the diet (juvenile) 50% of the diet (adult)
- Insects account about 75% of the food (juvenile)
- 25 percent of the diet (adult)
- Meat: 0% of the diet Supplements Needed: Calcium/Vitamin D3
Maintaining the Health of Your Red Bearded Dragon
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Health Concerns
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) - Caused by a poor diet low in calcium and rich in phosphorus, MBD may induce jaw swelling and leg tremors.
- Mouth rot, also known as infectious stomatitis, is a bacterial illness that causes gum swelling and thick mucus.
- Pinworms are the most frequent parasite and are generally discovered during a routine parasite fecal check. They might induce diarrhea and cause you to lose weight.
- Respiratory illnesses, such as pneumonia, are caused by bacteria, fungus, or parasites, and may cause your beardie to sneeze and produce bubbles from their nose and mouth.