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How do I teach my dog not to pull on the lead?

Dogs need to be trained to walk on a leash. After all, they are born not knowing that they do not have to pull on a leash or drag somewhere behind. Sometimes it is very difficult to teach a four-legged dog to walk side by side, because it cannot just stand still when it thinks it is about to go out for a walk and can do whatever it wants.

There are many ways to teach your dog to walk on a leash without pulling on it. There are also a few basic rules that you should follow so that, whichever method you choose, it is effective:

Until your dog stops pulling on the lead during walks, treat every time you take him outdoors as a lesson. Repeat these lessons regularly and keep them short.

You will need lots of rewards. Use a variety of treats that your dog loves but does not get at other times. Soft food is best as it is quickly chewed by the dog.

Your lessons will be very effective if you manage to tire the dog beforehand. Dogs usually pull the figure because they are full of energy, and until that energy runs out, they struggle to control themselves. So before class, play an energetic game or take your pet to a park where they can run around a lot.
Go at a fairly brisk pace. If the dog is in a hurry or running, it is less likely to pick up any tempting scent or stop every few steps to mark the territory.

If your dog gets excited as soon as you start getting ready to go outside, that’s where the training should start. If your dog is running back and forth, barking, moaning, squirming, tell him to sit down. If the dog doesn’t calm down, put the leash back in place, come back and sit on the sofa. After a few minutes, try again. Repeat until the dog obeys and sits up. Praise him and attach the leash. If he starts jumping again, drop the leash and tell him to sit. Wait. When the dog sits, try again. This boring exercise will help you go for a walk without any extra nerves. Once your dog has been walked for a few minutes, you will be able to walk for a few minutes.will sit and wait for you to attach the leash to the collar and open the door.

Phase I. Following the trainer

For the first session, choose an empty field or meadow where you can move in any direction. With your dog tied to a 3-5 metre lead, start moving. As soon as the dog tries to pull on the lead as usual, calmly call his name and give a few short, light but sharp tugs on the lead. At the same time, slow down and finally stop and reverse the direction of movement. When changing direction, we want the dog to follow, so tug lightly but sharply on the lead a few times to tell the dog where to go. The tapping should stop as soon as the dog no longer pulls on the lead. You should also immediately attack the pet with praise and sometimes, especially when the dog approaches you, give a treat. Repeat this exercise several times. For example, first go straight ahead, then after about five metres turn left, then after another 3-5 metres turn left. metres, turn right, then go back, and so on.

at this stage, we want the dog to follow the trainer. The signal is the dog’s name calling. It is important to remember that throughout the training, in order to maintain a positive emotional background, be sure to keep in constant contact with the pet and, when it changes direction without being asked, do not forget to praise it in time and, when it insists on pulling on the lead, to scold it.

Stage II. Transition from tracking to walking on a loose leash

At this stage, the signal that means we are about to react negatively (tugging on the lead) is too much lead tension (at this stage, we no longer call the dog by name).

The tugs must stop as soon as the dog relaxes the tension on the lead and follows you. At this point, praise and give him a treat. But if, as soon as it has been praised, it starts to follow you again, react immediately by tugging on the lead until its tension is reduced again. Praise the dog and give the treat. So, in the second stage of trainingWe explain our final requirements to the four-legged dog by developing the skill of walking on a loose leash, which means: as long as you don’t tread on me, but follow me, you will be fine, no one will tread on you, and you will be praised and given treats. The first two phases of the training have to be completed in the first lesson (about 2 hours). The aim should be to get the dog to follow when the lead is loose. In the meantime, the length of the leash changes from longer to shorter (from 3 to 5 to 10 metres).

Stage III. Eating on a loose leash

At this stage we will combine soft and tight collars. This involves attaching two leashes (preferably of different colours), one to the soft collar and the other to the hard collar. Now, if the dog tries to pull you towards it, first pull on the leash attached to the soft collar and, after 0.5-1.0 seconds, on the leash attached to the hard collar. Gradually increase the interval between tugs on the soft and hard leashes to 3-4 seconds, and dadjust the strength of the slingshots.

Thus, the number of slingshots should increase and the number of slingshots should decrease. Similarly, the situations in which this skill is taught and developed should be varied and progressively more difficult. While in the first and second stages we were constantly changing the trajectory of the movement, in the third stage the dog is mainly taught to walk straight. The dog’s chest should also be measured. Initially, one session should last no longer than 5-7 minutes, but there may be several such sessions in one walk. Gradually increase the session time to half an hour or more.

At the end of each session, let the dog run freely (i.e. without a leash), preceded by the command: Run! or: Free! or, after attaching the leash to a soft collar, give the command: Go! the word Forward! should mean something like: immediately after the command Forward! drag me as far as you want! This allows the dog to exhaust himself while working physically.

After, when, in any situation (without using negative influence),

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